After a few days of delicious meals in Athens, we were very excited to try the local fare in Heraklion. During our 6 days in Crete, we had some of the best wine, honey, cheese, and olive oil of our entire trip. We also really appreciated the hospitality we were given at every spot that we had a meal in. Almost every dinner ended with a complimentary dessert as well as a shot of raki, or Tsikoudia, the local version of tsipouro, made by distilling pomace, the remains of the grapes pressed in winemaking. We were told on multiple accounts that this was the Cretan way – to end every dinner with a little sweet and a little raki. 

By far, our favorite restaurant in Heraklion was Peskesi. We loved it so much that we immediately made reservations for our last meal, throwing away any other plans that we had. Peskesi serves farm to table sustainable meals in the Cretan style. A lot of the dishes are cooked in the yee-old way, with recipes dating back hundreds of years. My absolute favorite dish was the Thria or Thriomageria – prepared in the ancient recipe for dolmades with grape vine leaves and zucchini flowers, stuffed with groats and organic herbs from the garden. These were truly the best stuffed grape leaves that I have ever had. I was told by our waiter that it’s the use of groats, which is the most traditional way, since rice didn’t exist before. We also had this absolutely delicious shrimp in tomato sauce with melty local cheese.

Another dinner gem was Apiri Greek Eatery, a lovely spot serving contemporary Greek cuisine. We had a glorious Green Seasonal Salad with Cretan Gruyère cheese and herbs and my Grilled Seabass with lemon and guakame sauce was so flavorful and unique. Of course, the complimentary almond cookie and raki didn’t hurt! 

Our favorite spot to grab a quick and delicious breakfast was Phyllosophies. Located in the heart of Heraklion, facing the Morosini Fountain, Phyllosophies is a great spot to sit and people watch. We had breakfast here twice, because their bougatsa was just the best. Bougatsa is a sweet or savory Greek breakfast pastry made with phyllo dough wrapped around a filling. In Crete, the savory bougatsa is made with local mizithra cheese and the sweet bougatsa is filled with semolina custard and dusted with cinnamon or powdered sugar. I was always a fan of the savory while X loved the sweet custard. 

Another solid breakfast spot with excellent coffee is Frankly Cafe, located right across from Agios Minas Church. On our last day in Heraklion, we enjoyed having a leisurely breakfast with a cup of coffee, while people-watching at the little square in front of Agios Minas. I had delicious Honey Pancakes with mizithra cheese, honey, and walnuts.